History of Jainism revisited in Bihar

B V Prakash makes an exciting trip to Rajgir one of three places that form ‘The golden triangle of Bihar,’ where a pair of caverns lie cut out from reddish pink rock. One of them has the marking of a door where king Bimbisara’s treasure is believed to be hidden


We had just rounded off an exciting tour of Jharkhand and with a few days to spare we chalked out a plan to visit the golden triangle of Bihar viz, Rajgir, Nalanda and Pawapuri. At the outset, we were in for a pleasant surprise close to the southern boundary of the state. Hidden away among the dense woods and rocky ridges is an enchanting waterfalls, the Kakolat falls. Though the 10 km back breaking drive to the spot on a non existent road dissuades anyone from venturing, the trouble is worth taking as we discovered on reaching the spot. A narrow path and a few steps lead to this lovely waterfall charming in its own way.

The single cascade drops down in two stages with lines of droplets much like the drizzle of raindrops into a small square pool below which is cool and ideal for a swim. The rocky surface is smeared with lichens and the damp roots and twines of the trees form the background. Smitten by its beauty we made it back to the highway and on to Rajgir to rest.

Rajgir or Rajagriha, as it was known earlier, is a pilgrimage for both Buddhists and Jains. As we began a guided tour, Naulakha, the Jain Shwetambar temple was the first to be visited. The richly carved towers and structures cast in deep pink and white give an attractive look to the temple. The Venuvihar is a sprawling garden full of trees around a large tank and a lovely image of Buddha. The Brahmakund, the hot springs is a good draw for the visitors. It is actually the Saptaparni river that originates in the hills above. With separate bathing chambers for men and women, and a facility for changing, it lures almost everyone to take a dip.
As the ancient capital of Magadha empire, Rajgir also has a historical past and the many archeological monuments that the city is studded with only testily that. The Ajathashatru’s fort built by the king in sixth century BC has the remnants of pillars. So also the Bimbisara’s jail, where the king was confined by his own son. Of particular interest is Son Bhandhar, a pair of caverns cut out from reddish pink rock. One of them has the marking of a door where king Bimbisara’s treasure is believed to be hidden. We rummaged through other sites such as the Cyclopean wall that once surrounded the entire town, Pippala cave and Maniar Math ruins.

The best part of visiting Rajgir is certainly going up the aerial rope way in open chairs to the top of Ratnagiri Hill which is dominated by the giant white pagoda, the Vishwa Shanthi Stupa built by the Japanese in 1969. The equally impressive temple of the Buddha adjacent to the stupa, also built by Japanese is spick and span. From the top one can have a splendid view of the township as also the Griddhakuta or Vulture’s peak, where Buddha used to give his sermons.

Just 15 km to the north is Nalanda, the famed site of an ancient university. This important seat of learning was founded by Kumara Gupta in 5th century and reigned in glory for 700 long years. Its downfall came with the invasion by Bhaktiyar Khilji. The excavations conducted by archeological Survey of India have opened up the remains of six temples and 11 monasteries spread over an area of one square kilometre. The most imposing structure is the huge triangular stupa with stairs surrounded by smaller temples with well carved figures. During its hey days the university had about 2000 students, some of them from as far as China. The great scholars here taught various subjects from theology, grammar and astronomy to medicine and philosophy. The entire site with a neatly planned row of cells amidst green lawns is not only appealing, but takes one back to the bygone days.

The archeological museum with a number of small buddhist statues and other artifacts found during excavations is quite closeby. A memorial wall built in honour of the Great traveller, Hieun Tsang who visited here in 7th century is a latter day monument.

From the trail of historic monuments, we moved on to Pawapuri, the most sacred pilgrimage of the Jains. The chief attraction here is the Jal Mandir, a beautiful symmetrical temple on a lake. It was here that Lord Mahavira, the 24th Thirthankara attained nirvana. The temple has the other name, Apapapuri, meaning the town without sins. Legend has it that after ceremonial rites of Mahavira were performed, the ashes were taken by the devotees.

The great influx of pilgrims continuously removing the soil resulted in a large tank all around. Another religious shrine we visited was the Samosharan from where the Lord is said to have given discourses. It is a small white marble temple with a series of concentric pedestals one above the other and with exquisitely carved images in small chambers.

Deeply impressed by Buddhist monasteries, ancient monuments and Jain temples we signed off our sojourn to the Golden Triangle.

FACT FILE

How to get there: Patna is a good base to start with and is well connected by rail, road and air with major towns. Around 90 km from Patna is Nalanda from where Rajgir is 15 km south and Pawapuri is 30 km east.

Where to stay: Bihar tourism hotels and budget hotels at Nalanda and Rajgir. Dharmashalas at Pawapuri.

Tips: Engaging a guide at Nalanda and Rajgir would be useful.